Tastes of LA: Zinqué
Generally speaking, if a restaurant has more than two locations and the menu is more than two pages long and those pages are legal- size and possibly laminated, my expectations for the meal are seriously dimmed. Imagine my delight to visit Zinqué at more than one location for more than one meal and be seriously impressed.
Foodie Friend #4 and I tried the DTLA branch for brunch pre-theatre and did some oohing and aahing over their expert handling of what could have been somewhat mundane fare.
I mean, I’ve too often brunched at places whose promising menu descriptions are not matched by what their kitchens deliver. Not so Zinqué.
Their crispy sunny eggs with prosciutto, arugula and pesto packed the perfect ratio of ooze-to-gel in the eggs, balanced, not over-powered, by the salty piquancy of the ham and sauce. My leek and Gruyère quiche similarly found the sweet spot between custardy and scrambly innards and light flakiness in the crust. Plus, FF#4, a coffee gourmand, raved about the La Columbe latte, and I heartily concurred. Can’t say much about the location or ambiance except that it was convenient to the Music Center, (i.e. don’t go out of your way to check it out.)
Happily, you don’t have to, because there is probably a Zinqué near you. Dinner at their West Hollywood outpost cemented my first impression. Of special note was the appetizer of crispy saffron rice topped with ahi, harissa mayo, avocado and smoked trout roe; the smokiness playing nicely with the hint of saffron and harissa heat.
While the grilled shrimp with za’atar yogurt worked well, the moules frites were a bit of a milky disappointment. However, the two veggie dishes aubergine parmesan, dark-roasted and cheesy, and bright green beans with crispy garlic both wowed. (And were even better the next day!) There are lots of vegetable and gluten-free offerings, much to the delight of my dietarily-challenged BFF, and the comfy, casual vibe, moderate prices and all-around solid menu make it an easy spot to recommend. See you there!
Logistical note: Parking is a challenge!
Molly Cheek
Molly Cheek is a retired actor and Epicurean School graduate. She is best known for her roles in “It’s Garry Shandling’s Show” and the “American Pie” franchise, (she baked the pie!). For her second act, she turned to her real love: Eating!!! Molly created a catering and home-cooked gourmet gift basket business, placing her baked goods in coffee joints and on craft service tables around Los Angeles. And even though she’s moved on from that endeavor, she still loves to eat. She starts dreaming of lunch as soon as breakfast is done. Cooking is fun, but eating out is her happy place. And she loves to talk about what she eats…..and what you eat and what people on TV eat…. So, she hopes her enthusiasm for food will ignite some tastebuds and inspire you Tomatoes to try something new.
