There are so many factors at play in one’s experience of a restaurant. Aside from the obvious quality-of-food and level -of- service components, ambience, expectations and personal state of mind enter in. Is the music too loud? (In LA, the answer to that is Yes, always.) How much of a hassle is it to just get in the door? ( I.E. how convenient is the parking and how competent the hosting staff?)

Given that my foray to American Beauty at The Grove began with an excruciatingly long battle with holiday traffic just to park, that it was the restaurant’s opening weekend, which exacerbated the chaos at the front desk and that the decibel level of the music rivalled a disco, I was not anticipating a review-worthy meal.

It’s nothing short of a Christmas miracle that dinner overcame all expectations. While primarily a steak place, the menu boasts a hefty offering of veggie small plates and sides, and each one we tried was a winner. Starting with the wood-grilled flatbread with smoked honey and labneh on through meyer lemon-pomegranate roasted squash and the divine spinach and bok choy in “escargot butter”, the only more popular dish at our table was the onion and sour cream-stuffed hash browns. I would have been happy to stop there.

But, if you partake of meat, you’re in for some treats, too. Am I the last on the planet to hear of the Teres Major cut? Well, for you other beef illiterates, it’s tenderloin-adjacent but heartier in taste. And American Beauty knows how to prepare it. This kitchen refuses to over-cook good meat, and the seasonings boost the flavor just-right. Most impressive for me, though was the roasted chicken; a dish I never order out, (I mean I can make a good one of these myself), but I opted to share with a fussy grandchild and was wowed. This herbaceous, juicy bird, napped with an earthy au jus was top notch. Just another wonderful surprise from a restaurant I never expected to like. And here’s to defying expectations and staying open to everything!  VISIT THEIR WEBSITE.