Beef shanks or shin, a relatively inexpensive cut, has become more available in supermarkets lately, though a lot of shoppers don’t know that it’s one of the best beef cuts for stew. With its big flavor and high percentage of connective tissue, it tastes the way we think beef should taste and it produces a richly textured sauce. The inspiration for this oven-cooked dish is brown sock. Every time I caramelize meaty bones and vegetables as a flavor base for broth they look good enough to eat right there and then. By letting them cook with the usual complement of herbs, vegetables, and potatoes, some canned tomatoes, and a little broth, they are.

Beef Shanks with Whole Vegetables and Potatoes

Serves 4 to 6

• 4 large 1-inch thick slices of beef shank (about 3 1/2 pounds)
• Salt and pepper
• 8 medium carrots, peeled
• 8 smallish onions (about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds)
• 2 or 3 parsnips, peeled
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 16 whole garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 13 3/4 ounce can beef broth
• 1 1-pound can Italian plum tomatoes
• 2 pounds all-purpose or boiling-type potatoes (such as Yukon
• gold or red bliss), peeled or unpeeled, cut into roughly
• 2-inch chunks, halved, or quartered, depending on size
• 4 sprigs parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon thyme
• 1 large bay leaf

In an approximately 15 by 11-inch roasting pan, arrange the slices of beef shank, preferably without overlapping them.

Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Arrange the peeled carrots and onions over the and between the meat. Cut the tapered ends of the parsnips off about half way down each. Cut the heavier tops in half. Arrange all the pieces in the pan. Drizzle on the olive oil. Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and pepper.

Place in a preheated 450 degree oven for 30 minutes. After 15 minutes, turn the meat over and rearrange the vegetables.

After the 30 minutes, at which time the meat should be brown, remove the roasting pan and turn the oven down to 350 degrees.

Add all the remaining ingredients to the pan, breaking up the tomatoes slightly with the side of a wooden spoon. Cover with heavy duty foil and return to the oven for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the meat and vegetables are very tender.

Meat and vegetables can be served in deep plates or shallow bowls — with the juices as they are.

Or, remove the meat and all the vegetables except the garlic. Place them on a platter and cover with foil to keep warm while finishing the juices into more of a sauce.

Strain the juices into a saucepan, pushing through any tomato bits and the pulp from the whole cloves of garlic. Skim off the surface fat. Place over high heat and reduce juices slightly, stirring frequently. Pour the thickened and reduced juices over the meat.

Serve with plenty of crusty bread to sop up the juices.