Growing up in the suburbs, it was a rare treat to go to a restaurant, and we had to travel a few towns away to find one. A Chinese restaurant in Riverside, a seafood joint in Norwalk, and a pizza place in Stamford were annually graced with our presence. But if it was a really special outing, Manero’s Steakhouse in Greenwich was the acme. Nick Manero wandered the dining room in a big toque, as the veteran waiters in long white aprons bustled about delivering garlic bread, Gorgonzola-dressed salads and all grades of family-affordable meat. I can still hear their barbershop quartet version of Happy Birthday.

Steakhouses maintained that aura of primacy and tradition of reliable service and family warmth as I moved on and up in the world. From Gallagher’s in Manhattan to the Palm outpost in West Hollywood, (RIP Gigi), steak, a wedge salad and a half and half order of fries and onion rings could always hit the perfect note.

I was thinking of that long through-line as I eagerly visited uber-chef Josiah Citrin’s latest addition to the steak-centric food scene, Charcoal Sunset.

Of course, the meat is sublime and cooked to perfection. And I was unexpectedly delighted by the melt-in-your-mouth charred Napa cabbage and its yogurt, lemon zest & sumac accompaniment. Ditto the roasted beet, persimmon and goat cheese salad with honey vinaigrette. Nice departures from the usual steakhouse side dishes.

But the departure from standard chophousery that really got me thinking was the atmosphere. As I mused over the stark, ice-blue lighting, electronic music, boisterous Millennials and somewhat lackadaisical service, I saw a new through- line from Ruth’s Chris to Boa to Charcoal. Steakhouses seem to have become emporia of posery; havens for restaurant-goers less interested in food than showing off the size of their wallets. “Look at me spending $50 per ounce on Wagyu steak!” seems more the vibe than “I’d like a quiet booth and a dry martini, thanks.”

Don’t get me wrong, I am in full embrace of the notion that change is the only constant, and Heaven forfend I ever wish to turn back the hands of time. It’s just that I’m reminded how much atmosphere, (as with all ancillary elements of presentation), influences my enjoyment of food. Great steaks are great in any case, and Charcoal’s are certainly great. I just prefer mine in that corner booth. VISIT THEIR WEBSITE.

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