Tastes of LA: Sqirl
My foodie stepson was bemoaning how often he winds up eating at the same handful of restaurants, mainly because of their proximity and convenience. Even with a fluid work schedule, in Los Angeles, traffic alone plays a significant role in determining our dining choices. But I submit that taking a little extra time to plan a meal destination is worth the effort.
Case in point: my birthday brunch. For umpteen years, (which I just realized is 10!) I’ve meant to visit Sqirl, the much-ballyhooed breakfast and lunch Mecca founded by jam guru Jessica Koslow. I’ve oohed and aaahed over descriptions of her carefully- curated and highly original concoctions and somehow never ventured into the unfamiliar environs that house her shop. Well, happy birthday to me: I talked Foodie Friend #3 into driving to that No-man’s-land with me, and I’m here to tell you, I waited barely a week to go back.
If I’m ever on Death Row, Sqirl’s Brulee 42.5-Hour French Toast will be my last meal. That wedge of custard-soaked brioche crowned by a crackling veneer of sugar, a dollop of mascarpone and a soupcon of fig jam has me besotted. Syrup is almost superfluous. Not to be slighted, the fluffy, browned- at- the -edges ricotta pancake is a close second.
And how about that smoky potato quiche? Let’s not forget the salmon rillette with crème fraiche and preserved Meyer lemon on baguette, or, edging our way toward the lunch menu, the stupendous tomato and coriander jam sandwich with melted cheddar and freshest of the fresh arugula.
I have not even scratched the surface of all Sqirl has to offer….breakfast bowls and porridges, gorgeous salads and pastries galore. Another of my new off-the-beaten track finds and the best reason I can think of to plan an eating destination. See you there!
Logistical tip: It’s an open-air affair, so dress accordingly.
Molly Cheek
Molly Cheek is a retired actor and Epicurean School graduate. She is best known for her roles in “It’s Garry Shandling’s Show” and the “American Pie” franchise, (she baked the pie!). For her second act, she turned to her real love: Eating!!! Molly created a catering and home-cooked gourmet gift basket business, placing her baked goods in coffee joints and on craft service tables around Los Angeles. And even though she’s moved on from that endeavor, she still loves to eat. She starts dreaming of lunch as soon as breakfast is done. Cooking is fun, but eating out is her happy place. And she loves to talk about what she eats…..and what you eat and what people on TV eat…. So, she hopes her enthusiasm for food will ignite some tastebuds and inspire you Tomatoes to try something new.