The Heyward Beckons in Brooklyn
I’ve never been to Charleston or Savannah. I’ve fallen for Low Country cooking as Alexander Smalls and J.J. Johnson do it at The Cecil in Harlem. But I was excited to get a ride to The Heyward to find most of what emerges from chef Kevin Bergh’s kitchen to be good or very good, surprising and even whimsical.
The house is out of crab so we won’t get the mini crab rolls advertised. The waitress suggests we might want to order the pork belly special instead, with foraged berry relish, smoked corn and dilly beans. That’s a roundup typical of chef Bergh. It sounds like A Midsummer Night’s Dream. He grew up in St. Louis and spent time in New Orleans and Nashville. Like most hip chefs these days, he goes to the greenmarket and asks his purveyors what’s new and good.
We’ve already tackled the savory pileup of crispy braised pork belly and Hoppin’ John — Carolina gold rice and Sea Island peas laced with carrots and tomato. You can try to cut away the luscious fat but somehow it defies dietetic sanity. Pork belly twice in an hour is more than enough pork belly for me. You want to click here to know more about what to order. 258 Wythe Avenue between Metropolitan Avenue and North 3rd Street. Williamsburg, Brooklyn. 718 384 1990.
The Heyward’s shrimp and grits and scallop dish, photos may not be used without permission from Gael Greene. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved.